Eligibility: 

The Pinewood Derby is open to all Pack 87 Cub Scouts, their parents, and leaders. You must be present to race! Racers will be divided into TIGER CUB, WOLF, BEAR, WEBELOS, and OPEN divisions. Cars should be built new for this year’s derby and should be constructed with the least amount of parental assistance possible. Cars that have won in previous years or that have been built exclusively by a parent are prohibited from racing in regular heats but may race in the OPEN division. 
 

Car Building Rules 
and Specifications:

Body

The body in the Official BSA Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit (Kit No. 17006) must be used. Special Edition Stock Car Kit and other pre-built kits are NOT permitted. The body may be shaped or hollowed out from the original block, and accessories (such as steering wheels, drivers, fenders, fins, decals, paint, and weights) must be firmly attached as long as they do not exceed the following minimum or maximum length, width, and weight measurements:

• Length = 7 inches (178 mm) maximum overall;

• Width = 2 3/4 inches (70 mm) maximum overall:

• Width between front or rear pair of wheels = 1 3/4 inches
  (44 mm minimum (measured between the wheels' inside edges);

• Bottom clearance between car and track = 3/8 inches (9.5 mm) minimum;

• Wheelbase length = 4 1/2 inches (114 mm) +/- 1/4 inch (6mm);

• Weight = 5 ounces (142 grams) maximum.

Wheels and Axles 

Wheels and axles must be those furnished in the official BSA kit. Beveling, rounding, tapering, thinning, perforating, or any other significant altering of the shape or performance of the wheels or wheel hubs is prohibited. Modification of the cylindrical inner wall of the wheel that contacts the axle is prohibited. Wheel bearings, washers, or bushings are prohibited. This includes "wheel covers" which serve to keep the wheel hubs from contacting the car body. It also includes "hub caps", or anything else that might serve as a lubrication "well" or "tap".
 

Lubrication

Only dry powder lubricants are permitted. Lubricants may not be applied after impounding.
 

Other 

The car shall not ride on any type of springs. The car must be freewheeling with no starting device or other propulsion, such as adhesives, magnets, rubber bands, motors, jets, etc. Metal frames and metal axle supports are prohibited. 

Racers are responsible for understanding and abiding by all rules.
  

Racing:

Inspection 

All cars will be inspected during registration for compliance to the specifications defined below. If, at registration, a car does not pass inspection, the owner will be informed of the reason for failure, and will be given time within the official registration period to make any corrections.
   

Impound 

Cars will be impounded when registered. After being impounded, any repairs will be limited to the replacement of axels or wheels that are broken or lost during the races. No lubrication will be permitted after registration.
  

Heats 

Racing will be on a 'Perfect-N' system to determine the finalists in each division. If there is no clear winner at the end of the heat, single race runoffs will be conducted to determine the final 4 racers. Final heat ties will be resolved via a best 2 out of 3 runoff.

If a car jumps off the track, the heat will be run again. If the same car jumps off the track a second time, it will automatically lose the heat. 

If a car leaves its lane and interferes with another car, the heat will be run again. If the same car leaves its lane a second time and interferes with another car, the heat will be run again without the interfering car. The interfering car will automatically lose the heat.

If a car suffers a mechanical problem and a repair can be accomplished within 5 minutes, the heat will be run again. If not, the car will automatically lose the heat.
 

Disqualification 

Cars will be disqualified for the following reasons:
If at any time, the car is discovered to have violated the rules or specifications above.
If a scout or his parent(s) display unsportsman-like conduct.
 

Tips:

• True the axles

  • Using a drill press if possible, running a drill bit slightly smaller than the axle into the axle slot, ensuring that all of the axles go into the slots at right angles and at the same height. Leave only an axle-length of drill bit showing, and go slowly. 
     

• Remove axle flash and polish them

  • Chuck the axles in a drill, and with a small file remove the flash around the nail heads.

  • Use 600, then 2000 wet/dry sandpaper (wet) to polish the axle and around the heads

  • Finish off with chrome/metal polish for a mirror finish.
      

• Clean the wheels of flash

  • Spin wheels with a drill, using a small nail or mandrel, and use sandpaper to remove casting flash.

  • Remember, you cannot alter the shape of the wheels!!!
     

• Lubricate well

  • Start with a fine graphite and work it in during test runs.

  • Lube before the race with a coarser (lock) graphite.
     

• Weight just below the maximum

  • Just get it close to insure you are below weight.

  • That last little bit of lead really doesn't help, especially if you have to drill it out!

  • Keep weights low and keep them centered (left/right).